Product Information:

The products 205ST30K and 205ST45K are gooseneck hitches for a semi-tractor. Class 6, 7, & 8 semi-tractors have 34 inch wide frames (a few semi-tractors  in the 1980's were made with 33 inch frames and will work by using ¼” spacers or washers). These also work on Cab & Chassis. Some models of Dodge, Ford & GM truck, Cab & Chassis require a 2 inch taller version to clear exhaust or angle braces. They set 2 inches above the frame and the part number ends with a -T.

The 2-5/16 inch standard gooseneck ball is released by turning a handle 90 degrees, and can be turned over for clearance so you can tow with your 5th wheel hitch.

Other gooseneck ball options are available such as a 2-5/16 inch heat treated stainless steel ball with a 45,000 GVW rating, 3 inch gooseneck ball (part number FL1005-3) and other special height balls or an inverted 5th wheel kingpin and can be found under Flip-Over Accessories. The gooseneck ball is round and rotates in its socket which keeps the socket clean and can save ball life if you have a coupler that is of poor quality or is rough which a lot of them are. The ball is locked in the one-piece machined steel socket with a stainless steel spring and locking pin. Simply rotate the handle to retract the pin, pull the ball out and store it inverted out of the way in the socket giving full access to your 5th wheel hitch.

The frame is the same for both models: fabricated from ½ inch high grade steel--not A36 structural steel. The frame has two openings to each side and behind the gooseneck ball to connect safety chain hooks to. This frame is rated to 45,000 GVW.

The 205ST30K unit comes with a standard gooseneck ball 30,000 GVW, which is suitable for any standard gooseneck trailer. This also works on Cab and Chassis except for some Dodge, Ford & GM models, use the -T models so they clear your exhaust.

The 205ST45K comes with a 2-5/16 inch heat treated stainless steel gooseneck ball and a 45,000 GVW rating. This also works on Cab and Chassis except for some Dodge, Ford & GM models, use the -T models so they clear your exhaust.

The 205ST30K-T, 30,000 GVW gooseneck hitch is a special that sets 2 inches taller for some This also works on Cab and Chassis except for some Dodge, Ford & GM models, use the -T models so they clear your exhaust.

The 205ST45K-T, 45,000 GVW gooseneck hitch is a special that sets 2 inches taller for This also works on Cab and Chassis except for some Dodge, Ford & GM models, use the -T models so they clear your exhaust.

Product Installation:

The hitch installs behind the 5th wheel hitch on your semi-tractor and sets over the frame. It requires 10” lateral on the top of your frame and 4 inches down the side. It has three ¾” holes on each side to attach to your tractor frame and six ¾ inch grade 5 bolts are included.

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 The picture below shows the (-T) model to be used if you have exhaust or other clearance issues.

Semi-truck 7-way round to RV style 7-way Blade on a trailer.

The following information is from www.etrailer.com

https://www.etrailer.com/question-113692.html 

If you want to keep the semi-style 7-Way (if you need to tow that type of trailer) or if you will never be towing a semi-trailer.

If you need to keep the 7-Way semi active on the truck, then you would need to make an adapter to get it to work with an RV 7-Way. For that you would need a trailer side 7-Way round, # PK11702, a converter, about $15, # RM-732,  about $58 and a vehicle side 7-Way RV style, # PK12-707E about $8.

A semi-7-Way has separate circuits for the brake lights and each turn signal. And RV style 7-Way has the brake lights combined on the same circuit. So, what you would do is use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993, about $15, to determine the functions of the 7-Way on the tow vehicle. Then you would place the red wire from the converter to the appropriate spot on the back of the trailer side 7-Way round for brake lights. Do the same with the green wire for right turn signal and the yellow wire for left turn signal.

You will also need additional wire to attach to the back of the 7-Way round for the other functions needed. For ground and 12 volt power you can use   # 10-2-1 wire. For running lights you can use # 16-1-1 wire. , and for electric trailer brakes use # 10-1-1 wire.

On the output side of the converter you will attach the wires to the back of the vehicle side RV 7-Way. The green wire will attach at the 9 o'clock position, yellow goes to the 3 o'clock position. Ground goes to the 5 o'clock position, 12-volt power goes to 11 o'clock position. Running lights goes to the 1 o'clock position. The center pin is for reverse lights which is uncommon on many trailers. But if needed you will attach some wire to the appropriate pin on the 7-Way round pin and attach it to the center pin on the back of the RV style 7-Way.

I would then wrap up the whole sha-bang in electrical tape and voila; you just made an adapter.

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The alternative is to replace the 7-Way round pin on the vehicle with a 7-Way RV style connector. You could still use # PK12-707E, about $8 and converter # RM-732 about $58. What you would do is remove the 7-Way round and then use the circuit tester to determine the functions of the wires. After that you would hook up the converter wires and other wires as explained above and mount the new 7-Way to complete the installation.

The Roadmaster Brite-Lite Wiring Converter # RM-732 takes the outgoing signals from the tow vehicle separately and combines them with the turn signals. The converter is designed to see the different voltage readings from either the stop or turn functions and only allow the correct signal through to the trailer/towed vehicle. Diodes # RM-790 can be placed closer to the lights to prevent any back-feeding.

If you need a trailer cord extension, they offer a 8 ft long Hopkins HM20049 endurance universal 5th wheel/gooseneck 7-way extension cord for about $76.

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There are options available, and will post at a later date.